Thimble Raven

A friend organized a Gilded Age train ride recently, and I ended up completely changing my costume plans just one week before the event! I was initially going to use a different pattern that I just ultimately didn’t like – neither the mockup or the construction – so I scrapped that plan and decided to use a completely different style and fabric(s). There’s nothing like a tight timeline to spark some frenzied inspiration!

Patterns used: Truly Victorian patterns: TV423 (two tone bodice), TV225 (fantail skirt), TV365 (August overskirt)

Materials used: Cotton sateen, quilting cotton (19th century reproduction print), lightweight cotton broadcloth (lining), cotton thread, twill tape, buttons, bias tape.

I hadn’t yet made a natural form era gown, so I decided to take the leap and try something new. I used a 19th century repro print cotton for the bodice and overskirt (which had already been sitting around in my stash), and a bottom weight cotton sateen (which I ran to get at Joann’s) for the fantail underskirt.

Construction notes: I opted to make the fantail skirt without a train (even though my dramatic self LOVES a long train), because I would be wearing this outside and in a grassy picnic area. The fantail skirt pattern was fantastic, and one of the easiest skirts I’ve made! I’ll definitely use it again in the future. I altered the neckline of the bodice, just trimming it away until I was satisfied with the shape, because I didn’t want to wear a high collar – especially in the summer heat, with a fabric that was heavier than a super fine/sheer weight. The bodice didn’t fit as well as it could have, as I was in a rush. I skipped the boning, and probably could have taken in some of the seams above the bust. I finished the center front and neckline edges with some black single fold bias tape. The overskirt construction was super simple, and while the pattern notes say that it can be used for any bustle era AND natural form, I don’t think the shape was very good without a bustle. Especially in the front, it just fell a bit flat. I think it would look wonderful over a bustle, and I’m sure I’ll use the pattern for that in the future. Underneath, I’m wearing my 1880’s corset that I made from Redthreaded’s pattern (which I highly recommend – it’s easy to make and super comfortable).

Accessories: The hat I threw together by cutting the brim off an existing straw bonnet blank, until I had just about a 4″ deep crown. I hot-glued on some lace, paper flowers, cheap offray ribbon from my stash, and called it a day. It was held on by a hat pin. I think it turned out cute, but it was a pain in the butt to keep on my head, even with the hat pin. I’ll opt for something that actually sits fully over my head next time. I’m wearing earrings from Dames a la Mode. I’m wearing my Larkspur leather and wool boots from American Duchess, because they are my most comfortable pair of 19th century shoes.